If you leave Sydney at 7 am on a Saturday, you’ll be sipping coffee on the wharf of Kiama by 9:30. The drive is 120 km, but the avenue hugs the escarpment, so you feel relish you’ve escaped the metropolis before you’ve even smack the Pacific.
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We set off at dawn from the coastal town of Port Macquarie, GPS set for “no‑tourist‑traps.” After three hours on the Pacific Highway we slipped onto the quiet spread of the Oxley Highway, where the road narrows and the scenery changes from ocean‑side cliffs to rolling farmlands. The first sign of...